All County Fence and Gate, Inc.
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Gauge 9 ga commercial · 11½ ga residential
Mesh 2″ typical · 1¾″ security
Coating galvanised · black or green vinyl
Heights typ. 4′–12′
Posts schedule 40 pipe, set in concrete
Options privacy slats · barbed arm · bottom rail

Gauge and coating do the work

Chain link is specified by wire gauge, mesh opening and coating, and those three decide almost everything. Residential 11½ gauge is fine for a back boundary; anything commercial, or anything a dog leans on daily, wants 9 gauge. Lower number, thicker wire.

Galvanised-after-weaving lasts substantially longer than galvanised-before, because the cut ends get coated too. Black or green vinyl over galvanised core costs a little more, visually disappears against planting, and is what most residential clients actually want once they see the two side by side.

Common configurations

01 Residential galvanised

The standard back-boundary fence. Cheapest per foot of anything we install, and quick to put up over long runs.

02 Black vinyl-coated

Galvanised core with a bonded vinyl skin. Visually recedes against planting instead of glinting, and the coating adds corrosion life.

03 Commercial security

9 gauge, taller, tighter mesh, with a bottom rail or tension wire. For yards, sites and anywhere the fence is the actual security layer.

04 Privacy slatted

Vertical slats woven through the mesh. Buys privacy without the cost of a solid fence, but adds wind load — posts get sized for it.

Chain link fence we have built

Black vinyl-coated chain link fence
Black vinyl-coated
Galvanised chain link fence installation
Galvanised, residential
Chain link fence run at a Los Angeles property
Long run, line posts
Welded hog wire in a redwood frame
Welded mesh in wood frame

What decides the detail

Mesh

Welded mesh, not woven, wherever the run is long and re-tensioning is impractical. Woven sags at 8′ bays and cannot be pulled tight again.

Corners

Terminal, corner and gate posts carry all the tension and get bigger pipe and more concrete than line posts. Cutting that corner is why cheap chain link leans.

Bottom

A bottom rail or tension wire stops the mesh being pushed up. Without one, a dog is under the fence in an afternoon.

Questions we get asked

What are the benefits of a chain link fence?

Cost per foot, speed of installation and near-zero maintenance. It secures a boundary without blocking light or air, it does not rot or need re-coating, and damaged sections can be spliced rather than replaced wholesale. For long runs and large lots nothing else is close on price.

Chain link or wood — which should I choose?

Chain link where the job is security, containment or a long boundary nobody looks at. Wood where the fence is part of how the property presents from the street. Plenty of our clients use both: wood across the frontage, chain link down the side and back.

Can chain link be made private?

Yes, with vertical privacy slats woven through the mesh, or with planting. Slats get you roughly 75–90% opacity for a fraction of a solid fence. They do add wind load, so posts and footings get sized for the slatted condition rather than the bare mesh.

How long does chain link last?

Galvanised-after-weaving runs twenty to thirty years inland. Vinyl-coated over a galvanised core goes longer, and looks better doing it. The usual failure is not the mesh but a leaning terminal post that was never given enough concrete.

Get a real number

Tell us the opening width and we will tell you what it takes. Site visits are free inside the service area and take about forty minutes.